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| (This
transcription of Captain
John Rolland's report of an expedition to the Gog Range – Mt
Roland area was prepared by Bob Mesibov in March 1998 from Archives
Office of Tasmania CSO1/95/file 2276.)Hobart Town 21st
January
1824 Sir,
Having reason to believe from a previous observation of a part of this
Island to the westward of the River Tamar, that a passage existed from
the Macquarie River to the north western Sea Coast, and that such a
Passage was to be found by proceeding in the first instance along
certain plains which I had seen at a distance extending to the westward
for many Miles, between two ranges of high mountains and at the
distance of about 30 Miles South of the Sea Coast of Bass's Straits: I
proceeded for the purpose of exploring this passage to the Farm of Mr.
Leith a Settler on the western or Quamby's River. Leaving Mr. Leiths on
the 27th Novr. I followed the course of the River to the westward and
on the 28th I entered by a narrow pass, where a branch of the River
falls over high rocks, the unexplored country, On that day and the
following we passed over plains of several miles in width composed
partly of good dry Soil fit either for pasture or tillage, partly of
Swampy pasture ground and lastly of boggy unproductive soil. Several
Streams of excellent water forming part of Quamby's & the
second
western River intersected these plains numerous fires lighted by the
natives were seen in every direction and though the nearest Hills were
obscured by the smoke of the Grass to which they had set fire, we saw
only one near. On the afternoon of the second day after making the
plains, we entered an extensive forest the timber of which was of the
various kinds usually found in the Island but chiefly of stringy Bark.
Several rapid Streams ran through this forest and fell into the second
western River. Occasional Strata of Rock rose above the Surface of the
Ground and one of the Streams was for some distance confined in a very
narrow and deep channel between rock of the same description. It was on
the evening of the same day while halting for the night on the bank of
this Stream, that I am confident I felt a slight Shock of an Earthquake
which was followed at a considerable interval by two or three Crashes
proceeding from the fall of trees on the side of the high mountains
which had been overturned by the shock. — On the 30th we
crossed this Stream and were evidently entering a more wild Country. It
was here for the first time we saw some circular pits or ponds in the
Ground which we afterwards found to be numerous under the Mountains. At
the distance of two miles from the Stream we were met by a scrubby bare
hill of considerable height and we proceeded W.N.W. along the base of
it, passing over numerous small runs of water, which fell down its
sides— About 12 O'clock we descended by a steep bank, and entered
a small plain covered with small high ferns at the extremity of which
we found the second western River flowing rapidly over a rocky bottom
at the base of the lower tier of the western mountains. At
this
place the body of water in the river appeared to be equal to that of
the South Esk and its course was from West to East. Proceeding up the
River in the Evening we found it made a sharp turn to the South and was
hemmed in by two very high and Scrubby hills, the sides of which
towards the River were perpendicular Rocks and it was impossible any
longer to follow its course upwards. On the first of December I found
it necessary to halt, and employed myself in collecting specimens of
the Rocks, while two of the Soldiers were directed to ascend the lower
western tier and endeavour to descry an opening to the N.W. After being
absent for the greater part of the day they returned with their clothes
much torn and reported that they could not ascend the highest part of
the mountain so as to overlook the north-western part of the Island,
but that they could see to the southwest as far as the Eye could reach
and that it appeared a very scrubby mountainous
Country. They had however seen a small plain distant about 7 miles
W.S.W. On the following day we forded the River aboutmiddle deep, and
ascended the hill
which bounded it to the west. After proceeding about 4 miles we came to
the plain described by the men which was only a few acres of rushes;
here we observed that the River divided into two parts, and the one
which lay nearest to the direction which we wished to pursue again ran
between perpendicular Rocks. To the N.W. the country presented an
impenetrable high scrub which we attempted to pass through but were
obliged to return not having made many yards progress after two hours
exertion. We made our former halting place in the afternoon very much
fatigued, the hills in this direction being covered with a very prickly
Shrub, bound together by a tough though small Creeper which renders the
ascent very laborious. For the three following days I searched in every
direction for a pass between the two ranges of Mountains laid down in
the accompanying Sketch. Penetrating through the first tier of scrubby
hills which connect them we came on a small plain of 10 or 15 acres,
filled with remarkable natural ponds in depth probably 40 or 50 feet
and as many in diameter, two or three of these were dry, and in one the
water appeared to have sunk into the Earth by a considerable opening at
the bottom of it. I should conceive that in the rainy Season the whole
of this plain is under water. Before making this plain my Compass which
was in the pocket of my Waistcoat and fastened to it by a String had
been torn out by the scrub. The country immediately to the westward of
the plain, is not hilly but it is covered with various sorts of high
Scrub and fallen Timber and though we penetrated a short distance into
it we could not find any traces of the natives having been in that
direction. At this time we had a good deal of heavy rain, and the sun
was frequently obscured.
This together with
the high scrub
and the loss of my Compass made it impossible to proceed in that
direction. On the 6th December when about to return for the purpose of
exploring a passage to the Lake River, from the plains we had passed
over I perceived an opening in the lower tier of the mountains which
owing to the Country being so thickly wooded we had not previously been
able to discern. Proceeding by the side of a considerable Stream we
crossed the River by a good Ford when we found traces of the natives
and a plain of about 300 acres on the opposite side— The natives
first ran up the side of a tier, and having ascended it by what
appeared to be their path, while the Soldiers were cooking I
endeavoured to get a view of the north-western country. In this I was
disappointed as the Hill on that side was thickly wooded. I however
could perceive to the West. North. West. some hills which appeared less
wooded and thickly covered with Grass. To the South West I had a
complete view of the Country which appeared very hilly and thickly
wooded; I could not in the whole extent of it perceive any vestige of
plains or a good Soil. A remarkable Mountain (in this shape [sketch])
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was
distant Thirty five or 40 Miles to the Southward and westward of me.
Upon the whole I determined from what I saw to endeavour to make a
passage on the following day to the Northwest by crossing over the high
part of the tier in preference to proceeding by the low part which lay
to the west of me, and which I apprehend would be found impossible from
Scrub. Indeed it appeared to me that I was now in a track of the
natives to the Sea Coast. On the 7th we started early in the morning
and though the tier was steep and very high, we got to the top without
much fatigue as the passage was free from obstructions— After
taking a second view of the Country as far as we were able to the
Northwest, we began to descend where the ground appeared most open. For
a considerable distance there was no obstruction but it gradually got
thicker and we at last found ourselves encumbered with much scrub,
decayed and fallen Timber and numerous deep Gullies on either side of
us. It was now necessary to get to the bottom in the best way we could
and as there was no compass it made it more difficult to keep a proper
direction while the hill slopes rather to the Northeast. About midday
we had got to the foot of the tier and had walked for three or four
Miles in a bottom of scrubby and stringy bark in which we pursued our
course to the northwest for that and the following day. In this bottom
there was scarcely the trace of any Animal to be found. On the 9th I
proceeded to the N.W. for the purpose of obtaining if possible a view
of the Country— The thickness of the woods and the heighth of the
underwood and Scrub prevented us from succeeding in this object. As we
had now been forced by the nature of the Country altogether out of the
line in which I had hoped to find a pass to the Northwest, and as our provisions were getting short I determined to return. Following the course of the stream which fell into the second western River we crossed and passing over certain plains seen by me on a former journey, in four days we reached Leiths— After procuring supplies we again set out for the purpose of ascertaining the direction in which the large River laid down in the Sketch falls into the Sea, which we accomplished in four days, and in six more made George Town, which we reached on the 24th having left on the 22nd of November. The Country which I have explored and which is laid down in the accompanying Sketch is in general of an inferior description to those parts of the Island which I have seen to the eastward. The greater part of the low Grounds are evidently much subjected to floods during the rainy season, while the hills are generally thickly wooded and scrubby, and the grass of both is for the most part of a coarse description. The Kangaroo grass however is to be found in some parts of considerable extent. From the proximity of part of it to the western mountains, the degree of cold during the winter must be considerable.— Abundance of the finest water in the Island, and a more lasting verdure during the hot Season will scarcely counterbalance these disadvantages. The plains laid down in the Sketch are considerably elevated above the level of the Sea. I should conceive that there are ten thousand acres of Ground generally clear of wood in the part of the plains which were within my view: while from the appearance of the country to the Southeast, I am led to believe that a greater extent of clear land exists in that direction, connecting these plains with the Lake River. After leaving the plains and crossing the lower tier of the western mountains, I did not meet with any good country till I again made the second western river at the junction of the stream laid down in the Sketch, where I found about 400 acres of open ground. The plains marked in the Sketch to the Eastward of the second western River, are much intersected with scrubby hills which render it difficult to judge of their extent; but I conclude that there are between Quamby's and the second western River, four or five thousand acres of open Ground. This Country is excellently watered, and a small part of it is not subject to floods. I do not think however that more than five hundred acres could be taken in any part of it without including much scrubby Ground.— The second western River is very much subject to floods, and its banks are covered with great quantities of drift wood— The flat ground is of very small extent and in most parts a range of hills which bound it to the East rise immediately from the River. The sides of these hills towards the river are generally open and grassy— Their summits and sides towards the East are covered with ferns from five to eight feet in height which grow in a Red soil. This soil appeared to me well fitted for growing Grain being apparently composed of decayed vegetable matter from fallen timber and successive crops of the fern. This description applies to a considerable extent of hill in that part of the Country. Between the second and first western Rivers there is a narrow plain of good Soil which runs along the Coast for six Miles being bounded towards the Sea with a brackish Lagoon. This plain probably contains four hundred acres.— At the head of the south-western River or Port Sorell, I skirted some plains on a former journey which I have marked in the Sketch. They were rather thickly wooded and I am not aware of their extent, but I think it probable that there is good Land in this direction and towards Mr. Dry's farm on Quamby's river. Port Sorell is navigable for Boats within three miles of these plains. The Timber which I saw in the course of my journey, was of the same description as that found in other parts of the Country, with the exception of the Huon pine of which I found none. Fine stringy bark is abundant— Blackwood three feet in Diameter may be found in our Track homewards between the second and first western Rivers. The She-Oak and Beef-tree were not to be found at any considerable distance from the Sea coast. I have to add that although we travelled eight hours per day and did not allow more than from seven to twelve Miles for the distance performed, I was obliged to reduce the distance to the Westward, which I had computed as that gone over in the reckoning I kept during the journey; and I am inclined to think that the Track laid down in the Sketch still measures the distance to which we actually went.I have the honour to be Sir Your most obedient Humble Servant John Rolland Captain 3rd Foot To his Honour William Sorell Esq etc etc etc Lt Governor |